![]() ![]() The two haunch steaks were served atop a bed of wilted baby spinach in a brothy pool of venison jus, garnished with zesty roasted white turnips and a bland pair of golden-fried risotto balls. I needed a steak knife now and then to remove bits of gristle from my Pan-Roasted Venison ($25), but otherwise the meat was very supple, with a nicely browned crust and spot-on, medium-rare interior. My dining companion was torn between two wines for her bass, and our server thoughtfully brought tastes of each - the Riesling went better with the romescu, but it was a white Bordeaux from Chateau Haut Rian ($5.50/glass) that harmonized best with the fish. ![]() We chose two sides from the tempting list of possibilities: crisp baby Brussels sprouts, plus "winter squash agrodolce," which featured organic delicata chunks with celery, walnuts and wine-plumped raisins. Scant though toothsome was a dab of the garlic, almond, tomato and ancho puree known in Spain as romescu. Our instincts guided us well, as we received a beautifully sautéed tranche of the tasty, white-fleshed fish, presented skin side up. We were informed the Pan Fried Monkfish with Romescu ($23) was unavailable, but sea bass could be substituted, to which we happily agreed. On the side were some fabulous oven-steamed Yukon gold potatoes, baked leeks and rashers of smoky bacon, all drizzled with a caramel-sherry vinegar gastrique. And these were nicely rendered, cooked through but not at all grainy. ![]() Resembling lobes of cooked pork, sweetbreads have a flavor and texture that's rather like a cross between duck liver and rabbit. Grilled Sweetbreads ($9), like most offal, aren't everybody's cup of tea, but adventurous eaters should give this special a try. The spices were right, too, a mix of fennel, garlic, herbs and a touch of smoked paprika. This homemade link still had a tinge of pink at its center and was extremely juicy and moist. Only two draft beers are dispensed ($3.25/$4), both from neighboring Chatham Brewing, whose Amber Ale partnered perfectly with my Grilled Sweet Sausage and Peppers ($8) appetizer. The wines seem well chosen, as they easily harmonized with most of our fare only one disappointed, a glass of Le Meurger Pinot Noir ($9), possibly not at the peak of its powers. Local 111 sports lots of polished concrete and bare walls, but flickering candles and soulful Latin ballads along with a large pastoral canvas by Berkshire artist Gabrielle Senza help provide some warmth.Ībout half of the 21 bottles ($18-$60) on the pithy yet interesting wine list are also available by the glass ($5.75 to $12). Gatter and Dannis have created a unique space, adroitly transforming the twin mechanic's bays into a sleek, modern bistro. Perhaps it's fitting then, that a restaurant, which celebrates the renaissance of heirloom cuisine, should be in a reincarnated service station formerly known as Schermerhorn's Garage. To help achieve this, they recruited David Wurth, former chef at SoHo's Savoy and champion of the sustainable food movement. An hour's drive north of Poughkeepsie through the rolling hills and beautiful farmland of Columbia County is Philmont, a small town that became known in the late 1800s for its textile mills, which sent woolen goods and other fabrics to Manhattan via the New York and Harlem Railroad.Īrchitect Linda Gatter and husband Max Dannis chose Philmont to launch Local 111 in August 2006, a casual eatery that endeavors to serve seasonal produce sourced as locally as possible, often from nearby farms. ![]()
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